Len Toelke with his sister and navigator Ursula Toelke review Ontario's 2017 ROAMING RALLY.
Our Tacoma, though modified for water crossings, was never meant to have water over the hood. My stomach was dropping as the water was rising. “Oh God.” I thought as my sister and navigator sat stunned and silent next to me. “It’s just ten more feet to the island, so long as nothing underwater hangs us up.”
2017 had proven to be a very wet year. The province of Ontario had already surpassed 2 and 1/2 times the seasonal amount of rain this spring. All of the lakes, rivers and major waterways were at peak capacity or over. Toronto Island for example was under knee deep water and residences were being relocated. The Ministry of Natural Resources had opened all dams in the watersheds feeding the Saint Lawrence River to release as much water as possible. Increasing the water flow into the Saint Lawrence increases its current out to the ocean, so the water spilling into this seaway is carefully controlled to remain under 6 knots. Anything beyond that would turn the massive freighters, that ship goods to and from Toronto and Montreal, sideways and out of control. This region has not seen water levels this high for almost 100 years.
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To add to this, the wet and cool spring had created a wonderful breeding ground for blackflies and mosquitos. Northern Ontario was dealing with two to three times more blackflies than normal. I had spoken to Ted Johnson, co-creator and organizer of the overland Roaming Rally, just before the event. “The blackflies are so bad up here, that I’m thinking of cancelling the rally.” He said after an inspection of the Gravel Travel base camp a few weeks before the event was to begin (they own the 16-acre base camp). “My vehicle was swarmed by thousands of blackflies. I’ve never seen anything like it.” He told me in desperation. Luck was on his side though, because the dragon fly hatch began the week before the rally as did the dragonfly restocking program. Hundreds of hungry dragonflies were zipping around like little military helicopters devouring blackflies. Nature, it appears, was a sponsor of this year’s rally.
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The day before the overland truck event was to start; I pulled into Gravel Travel’s base camp located south of Ottawa on the outskirts of Merrickville. Camp was in an open clearing cut into a field set well back from the road and hidden behind a wall of shrub and trees. The freshly laid gravel drive leading to the camp area was neatly lined with a row of new porta toilets standing like sentries to welcome us. During this two-week event, participants can decide how many days they stay for and what routes to take. It starts with an intense three day long overland motorcycle rally where dual sport riders travel and work in groups to finish their chosen courses. Following this, is the overland vehicle rally. The two groups overlap on one night to meet and share stores over a communal bonfire.
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In the camp clearing, I was greeted by a lone, sleeping occupant in a reclining camp chair. Apparently, I was the first truck to arrive for registration. Ted Johnson stirred and opened a single bleary eye as he waved to the empty camp recliner next to him. “It was a late night with the guys on the dual sport bikes.” He yawned closing his eye again. “I think some of them only had three hours of sleep before they left this morning at 5 am.” I settled in next to him thinking Ted had been up all night with these guys too. I could really feel for the motorcyclists who had chosen a two-day trip running through some of the most difficult terrain and mud trails in North America. “This year there is a large waterfall the guys will have to carry their bikes up.” He told me. “Have any dropped out yet?” I asked tipping back the camp recliner next to him. “Not that I’m aware of, but I don’t think many, if any, will finish. It’s just too wet and the trails are all mud and deep water.”
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This gave me concern for the truck part of the event. “No don’t worry; the bikes are lighter and more capable than our large trucks. Also, I’m not sending anyone with a $20,000 plus investment onto a trail that can’t be done. Just stay on the trails and you’ll be fine. Work as a team.”
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“’Work as a team’ he said…” I’m watching the water about to go over the hood of my Tacoma. It is comforting to know that Nathan McDonald’s winch laden truck was just three vehicles behind me and Ryan Kelly’s Jeep Patriot (nicknamed Baby Jeep) had just driven this track not an hour earlier. This was the only reason I was driving blind into a swollen marsh bed. “Stay on the trails and you’ll be fine.” Thanks Ted, where the hell is the trail under this water?
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I should not be complaining. My Tacoma is heavily modified for just this sort of driving. Most of the other 4x4's in our little convoy, which set out together on day two of the Roaming Rally, are not modified at all. As I had the best navigation gear and 2nd best equipped vehicle I was leading the group this day. Nathan McDonald and his heavily modified, and very prepared, Tacoma was bringing up the rear. Sandwiched between us was Tareq Basamh with his stock Lexus LX470, Andreas Sniedermeyer with his navigator, and Francois Juneau in a nearly stock 3rd generation 4Runner. I could imagine the concern on their faces as they watched my rig plunging down into the depth while we crossed this 15-meter stretch of water. I could also imagine some horror as they watched us pull up and over a little island part way across the slowly flowing swamp and then make our way to the muddy trail beyond, because they were next!
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After finishing the crossing and before the adrenaline could settle, we grabbed our rubber boots and rushed back to spot for the others. I feared someone might try to go around the little island and tree that marked a small rise in the trail. Going around what might look like an obstacle could put a vehicle into deeper water beside the submerged trail. “Stay on the trail…” was still fresh in my mind. Thank you, Ted!
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This was by far the most eventful planned water crossing of the rally. I should note that there was an unplanned crossing in another location a day later, which was attempted by a lovely Land Rover 110 that ended in disaster and a three-day recovery. All ended well after sending for some very long winch cables, getting a tow along a hydro line route, calling for a tow truck, and then calling the insurance company.
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Friday saw the arrival of more rigs at base camp. There was a mix of both new and old faces and some participants from as far away as Virginia. The overland rigs were fascinating. As you can imagine in an event like this, no two vehicles are the same. I am always curious to see how each owner customizes their vehicle and gear according to their needs and budget. Some of the best innovations I’ve seen were forged from a tight budget that required careful consideration for use and efficiency. Dan Bidal’s Tacoma comes to mind. He is a wood worker from Montreal who was attending the event for the first time. He had cleverly designed the interior of his truck bed by building a compact sleeping shelf with storage and screened windows. I was impressed by its simplicity and efficiency.
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Campfire stories, tire kicking and introductions complete, we all crawled into our various camp set ups to sleep. Saturday was going to be our big group run on a GPS track that would take us winding through some gorgeous forests, swamps and trails to the Saint Laurence River and back.
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After a fast breakfast and breaking camp, we lined our 18 Rigs up behind Ted’s modified GMC Canyon. Airing down the tires and radio checks complete, we were on our way. It must have been quite the sightseeing a convoy of 18 overland vehicles traveling through town.
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The Roaming Rally was co-created by Ted Johnson and Jimmy Rodriguez, which they run yearly for dual sport bikes to help vent some of Ted's Dakar passions. The motorcycle event is a very strenuous GPS-based route that takes riders through forests, trails, swamps, rivers and even up waterfalls. This is one of the most challenging bike events in North America and riders come from all over the continent to participate. For their safety, they must enter and finish in teams. With a very high attrition rate, where only 10% are likely to finish, participants have to be both athletic and industrious. Succeeding at this event requires team spirit and a good knowledge of bike mechanics.
Ted was eventually asked to let trucks join this overland event. Trucks are not as nimble through rough terrain as motorbikes, and no one wants to get run over in the mud, so Ted mapped new routes for a new category. This year’s Roaming Rally, now in its 8th year, had over 75 bikes and 18 trucks registered. Participants were from Ohio, Virginia, several of the East Coast states, and from across Canada.
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I spoke to Ted about the rally after I arrived at base camp. We were both reclining in camp chairs waiting for the trucks to arrive and their owners to register.
Can you describe the Roaming Rally for our readers?
“The concept of the Roaming Rally is to create the framework for folks to go out and have an adventure. Participants are self-reliant, need to do their own navigation, and make their own decisions. This is unique in a world where most events consist of following a leader, having a sweeper rider/driver, a formal schedule, and so on. Sitting around a campfire at the end of the day is to us just as rewarding as a day of exploring. Meeting like-minded individuals who share a passion and who come from different walks of life is a big part of the experience.”
“This was our 8th year hosting the rally and we aim to continue to do so as long as there is interest in it.”
What draws these marathon riders back and what can they expect for this year’s routes?
“Several of the bike riders return year after year. Many of these folks come for the challenge and to ride terrain that is not available to them in their local riding areas. The routes we provide for the bikes are an endurance test to say the least. Most years have a finishing rate of approximately 10%. This year the conditions made the route very difficult and no one made it past the half-way point on day one.”
Do you plan to change next year’s rally?
"2018 will have two events. Both are expedition routes: a seven to ten-day expedition across the mountains of Western Canada and then a four-day expedition through the backcountry of Ontario and Quebec. Technically, next year's rallies will have easier terrain (paved and gravel roads and a few easy trails). The intent is to explore different backcountry locations while being self-sufficient. Bikes and trucks will share the same route. Details will be posted on GravelTravel.ca early in the new year."
So what do you intend to put me and my truck through?
“For the trucks, we do our very best not to make the routes difficult. The emphasis is on exploring the backcountry on gravel roads and easy trails. The trails are best suited to a truck with a modest lift, AT tires and equipped for backcountry travel. Of course, Mother Nature can wreak havoc on trails that, when dry, are normally stock friendly.”
We have had a lot of rain this spring. Are there any routes you’ve closed or modified?
“No, but for both the trucks and the bikes the provided routes are suggestions. This means we do our best to ensure it is suitable, but people need to use common sense while following it. Water crossings should be suspect unless the bottom is visible (walk them first if you are unsure), each corner should be taken with caution for oncoming traffic, washouts, trees down, …”
Sorry, was that important? I wasn’t listening...
“The concept of the Roaming Rally is to create the framework for folks to go out and have an adventure. Participants are self-reliant, need to do their own navigation, and make their own decisions. This is unique in a world where most events consist of following a leader, having a sweeper rider/driver, a formal schedule, and so on. Sitting around a campfire at the end of the day is to us just as rewarding as a day of exploring. Meeting like-minded individuals who share a passion and who come from different walks of life is a big part of the experience.”
“This was our 8th year hosting the rally and we aim to continue to do so as long as there is interest in it.”
What draws these marathon riders back and what can they expect for this year’s routes?
“Several of the bike riders return year after year. Many of these folks come for the challenge and to ride terrain that is not available to them in their local riding areas. The routes we provide for the bikes are an endurance test to say the least. Most years have a finishing rate of approximately 10%. This year the conditions made the route very difficult and no one made it past the half-way point on day one.”
Do you plan to change next year’s rally?
"2018 will have two events. Both are expedition routes: a seven to ten-day expedition across the mountains of Western Canada and then a four-day expedition through the backcountry of Ontario and Quebec. Technically, next year's rallies will have easier terrain (paved and gravel roads and a few easy trails). The intent is to explore different backcountry locations while being self-sufficient. Bikes and trucks will share the same route. Details will be posted on GravelTravel.ca early in the new year."
So what do you intend to put me and my truck through?
“For the trucks, we do our very best not to make the routes difficult. The emphasis is on exploring the backcountry on gravel roads and easy trails. The trails are best suited to a truck with a modest lift, AT tires and equipped for backcountry travel. Of course, Mother Nature can wreak havoc on trails that, when dry, are normally stock friendly.”
We have had a lot of rain this spring. Are there any routes you’ve closed or modified?
“No, but for both the trucks and the bikes the provided routes are suggestions. This means we do our best to ensure it is suitable, but people need to use common sense while following it. Water crossings should be suspect unless the bottom is visible (walk them first if you are unsure), each corner should be taken with caution for oncoming traffic, washouts, trees down, …”
Sorry, was that important? I wasn’t listening...
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Navigator Notes by Ursula Toelke
I want to add a few brief comments to this article, specifically about that water crossing mentioned at the beginning. I was navigator for Team OutHEREadventure.com and this was my first overland rally experience. As we sat in the truck looking over what was clearly a washed-out part of the trail, which was nothing more than two tire paths, I had serious misgivings about agreeing to this.
I want to add a few brief comments to this article, specifically about that water crossing mentioned at the beginning. I was navigator for Team OutHEREadventure.com and this was my first overland rally experience. As we sat in the truck looking over what was clearly a washed-out part of the trail, which was nothing more than two tire paths, I had serious misgivings about agreeing to this.
Ahead of us was a lump of muddy earth with a little bit of shrub and tree barely staying above the slow tide of water. It was impossible to gauge where the road was, but we could see the trail continue further beyond the island. Did this path really travel across that lump of earth or did it travel around it to the right. Everything in either direction looked like a flooding swamp. Did someone bring hip waders, because I was pretty sure we needed to check the depth before going any further. I was about to ask Len, my brother and experienced overland enthusiast, if he even owns hip waders when the truck started rolling forward. Oh nuts, this is my only pair of shoes.
Len must have read my mind, or my face, because he said “Don’t worry we have a snorkel on the intake and the water won’t get in under the doors.” As I watched the hood of the truck sink low as though it had decided it was going to make a dive for deeper waters, which it was, I made a plan to climb onto the seat and then out the window to the roof.
Len kept a slow and steady speed, so that we would not spin out the tires, even when we lost sight of the front of the hood. Yup, I am buying hip waders and packing them under the seat if I ever do this again. Within moments the hood broke the surface and we crawled up and onto the little muddy rise. There was a short distance of more water, but it was not deep, and then we were back on the dry trail.
Len kept a slow and steady speed, so that we would not spin out the tires, even when we lost sight of the front of the hood. Yup, I am buying hip waders and packing them under the seat if I ever do this again. Within moments the hood broke the surface and we crawled up and onto the little muddy rise. There was a short distance of more water, but it was not deep, and then we were back on the dry trail.
It would have been an interesting adventure to have to winch out of that little flood water, but everyone stayed on the trail and made it through. When you pack for your overland adventure in—well, probably anywhere in Canada I would imagine as we are a country full of water—do consider packing hip waders. …and maybe a fishing rod, so you have something to do while sitting on the roof of your rig.
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  | About the authors...The brother and sister team behind OutHEREadventure.com consists of Len and Ursula Toelke who grew up in Huntsville, Ontario. They spent their youth exploring the lakes, forests, and rocky outcrops in and around the regions of Muskoka and Haliburton. In the winters, their parents would close the family business, pack everyone into a van and drive to sunny Florida for camping adventures in the Keys, Everglades and state parks. |
Len Toelke is the Owner and Creative Director of OutHEREadventure.com. You can follow him on Facebook @OutHEREadventure.com and on Instagram @OutHEREadventure.
Ursula Toelke, the magazine’s Senior Editor and Photo Editor, can also be found on Facebook @UrsulaToelkeFineArt and on Instagram @UrsulaToelke.
Ursula Toelke, the magazine’s Senior Editor and Photo Editor, can also be found on Facebook @UrsulaToelkeFineArt and on Instagram @UrsulaToelke.
Our Disclaimer
As with any form of back country travel, leave no trace: stay on paths and trails, travel slowly through waterways and water bodies, do not disturb or feed the wildlife, follow local fire burn warnings and use propane stoves, carry out everything you carry in, and leave this beautiful place cleaner than you found it. We hope that your kids and their kids will enjoy this land too and be proud that you helped to protect it.
As with any form of back country travel, leave no trace: stay on paths and trails, travel slowly through waterways and water bodies, do not disturb or feed the wildlife, follow local fire burn warnings and use propane stoves, carry out everything you carry in, and leave this beautiful place cleaner than you found it. We hope that your kids and their kids will enjoy this land too and be proud that you helped to protect it.
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